DIY projects

Many aluminum fishing boats have livewells (for holding live bait or caught fish) that get water from the lake via pumps and hoses and through-hull fittings. It’s important to inspect this rigging because through-hull fittings exit the boat beneath the water line; a hose failure or a cracked pump housing will pour water straight into the bilge for that sinking feeling.

If your boat is getting long in the tooth, you should strongly consider replacing these hoses.

What should I do if I don’t use my livewell?

Another option, for cottagers who don’t use their livewells, is to detach the connections entirely. An easy fix, one that doesn’t involve epoxy or aluminum welding, is to remove the old hose from the through-hull connection, which will reveal a barbed plastic fitting inside the boat. Slip a short length of new hose over the barbed fitting, and secure it with two stainless steel hose clamps. Then seal off the other end with a plastic plumbing plug and two more clamps.

If you have two same-sized through-hull fittings, connect them with one piece of hose, double clamped at each end. Water will flow in and out of the hose, but not into your boat. Bonus: these fixes are easily reversible if you sell the boat or decide you need functioning livewells again.

This article was originally published in the May 2022 issue of Cottage Life magazine.

Check out how it feels to go fishing at dawn.

Is rot setting in on your deck boards? Replacing the lumber you walk on is usually an easy repair. You can even upgrade wood to low-maintenance composite lumber if you’re tired of refinishing your deck. But a new deck surface won’t last long unless you check and repair the substructure at the same time.

Remove a few old boards from the edge of the deck to be sure that the existing substructure will be safe and reliable if you reuse it. If you used deck screws, you may be able to unscrew them, but chances are debris and corrosion will frustrate your efforts. Instead, use a reciprocating saw with a hacksaw blade to slice through screws or nails at the joint line between deck boards and the underlying frame. It’s a lot easier than smashing and bashing, and it will leave you with decent scrap lumber you can use for those odd projects around the cottage.

How does the underlying wood frame look?

Poke the joists with a screwdriver to test for strength, especially along their top edges. Is the wood firm or punky? With the floor frame partially open and visible, are there any other areas of rot? Don’t trust your eyes, but poke here and there to make sure all is solid. Sometimes thoroughly rotten wood can look surprisingly good superficially—until your screwdriver sinks in. The ends of joists, beams, and posts are most likely to develop rot because water wicks into end grain in these parts more than other places. Also, pay particular attention to any parts of the deck frame with large areas of moisture-trapping wood-to-wood contact.

Small, isolated areas of rot no larger than a toonie are usually okay, but when rot sets in, it’s typically over a large enough area that you’ll need to replace some frame parts. Luckily, once the deck boards are removed, it’s not difficult to install some new joists. Now the deck is ready for new boards on top.

This article was originally published in the May 2022 issue of Cottage Life magazine.

How to prevent rot and adjust joists.

Don’t have a deck to repair? Get some inspiration for your next build.

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