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Cottage Life

Lessons from my misadventures in cottage country

When I think of the cottage, I imagine a sparkling blue lake, surrounded by laughter and serenity. However, my last few cottage-country experiences were anything but peaceful. Our explorations outside the city started with high hopes and ended with us feeling humbled by our surroundings, but would I trade these misadventures with smooth sailing? I would not.

Our first summer mishap started when my partner Behrad and our dog Popsie planned a two-week all-Ontario road trip from Toronto to Thunder Bay. Dotted i’s and crossed t’s, the itinerary was perfect. We were going to conquer the most exciting hikes, and visit Northern Ontario’s hidden gems. Our first stop? Killarney’s “The Crack.” 

We made it to the first lookout. We walked to the edge of the flat windswept rocky terrain, where we breathed in the fresh air and admired the sea of evergreen trees, appreciating the silence. No cars, no horns, no city hustle and bustle. Only a couple of minutes passed before Behrad suddenly turned sharply, towards the steep rocky path, riddled with large boulders, big and small cobblestones, and exposed roots, calling over his shoulder “Let’s goooo!”

Slow and steady was my usual approach, but Behrad and Popsie were eager to reach the top. After stretching our limbs past comfort and scraping our elbows and knees along the dusty sharp rocks, we finally made it. Gorgeous 365-degree views left us speechless. No longer did the mountains tower over us, but instead they looked like foothills in the distance. The Crack, a four-metre wide divide between giant rocky walls, was a bonus, framing the view, nature’s own Van Gogh at play.

I thought the way up was challenging, but the way back down was worse. Gravity thrust us forward, increasing our momentum, as we tap danced our feet in little steps, trying to slow our speed down the mountain. Popsie was showing off, leaping from one boulder to another, without any effort. The decline eventually became more manageable, easing into a flatter, rocky lookout point. Behrad took this opportunity to jump from rock to rock, but scrambled at the last minute, before hitting the ground, and letting out a giant “AHHHHHHHHHHH!” Man down! Man down! On the ground, he was still and in shock. I saw the pain in his eyes as he reached for his ankle, panicking about how big it was getting, so quickly. I wasn’t sure what to do at this point. We didn’t have any first-aid supplies, and there were a few kilometers of walking to get to the car. At first, I tried supporting him as he stood up, but it hurt too much to put any weight on the ankle. What were we going to do?

After a few minutes of resting, an ex-firefighter and ex-paramedic came to our rescue. They just so happened to be hiking and spotted us in the distance. (Our troubled looks must have given it away). Rushing over to assess the ankle, they assured Behrad that it wasn’t broken, but severely sprained. They offered ice packs and a tension band for support, and even offered to help him down the rock-ridden path, but Behrad politely declined. Half walking, and half sliding down the steep dirt paths, we made it to the trail. What should have been a two-hour hike back to the car, turned into a then daunting five-hour trudge. After many ouches and pit-stops later, we did it, Behrad did it—what a champ!

Lessons from a bear attack

This vacation took an unexpected turn, not for the worst, but for something far better. For the rest of that trip, we cruised along the winding and smooth highways that border Lake Huron, taking mental pictures of the tree-lined roads, nothing in sight but rolling hills, flourishing fields, and clear lakes. We jammed out to class radio tunes, listened to too many podcasts, and visited towns we had never heard of. (Did you know Plummer Additional exists? And that it’s close to beautiful sandy beaches? Me neither.) We learned to make the best out of a crappy situation with good company, breathtaking views, a good attitude, and a full tank of gas. 

That following fall, we packed our bags for a weekend hiking trip in Huntsville, settling by a lakeside cottage in the evenings. The first thing that went into our backpacks? A first-aid kit and proper hiking boots. No way were we having a repeat of the summer. I can’t recall the name of the trail that we hiked on, but I do remember how beautiful the scenery was. Red, yellow, and orange leaves covered the trees, crisp autumn air filled our lungs, and the cool breeze made for the perfect temperature to combat the heat that radiated off of us from the hike. We couldn’t have asked for a better start, no injuries; just incredible lookout views and elevated heart rates from the hilly paths along the mountain tops. 

It was on our way back that things went awry. Following what we thought was part of the loop we found ourselves wandering aimlessly in circles. “I recognize that tree,” I thought, after confirming that I’d seen it for the third time. The blue cards posted on the trees that should have directed us seemed to be making the situation worse. After a while, we had to admit it to ourselves: we’re lost. I swear that at first, we tried to be positive, but the novelty wore off and the smiles drained from our faces when we realized we had no clue where to go next. Hungry, tired, annoyed, and impatient, we couldn’t help but wonder how we got into this situation. As the sun set, the temperatures lowered, sending shivers down our spines. Not just because of the chilly evening, but suddenly those lovely nighttime sounds you hear while safely inside a cabin became creepy and uncomfortably close. 

We all get lost sometimes. Here’s why

But, ah ha! We were lucky to have spotted a family in the distance. Little did we know fate plays cruel tricks because they too were lost. For the next hour, we dragged our feet through the pitch-black trails, trying any direction, but the right one. We kept finding our way back to a muddy dead-end trail, at the edge of a stream, bordering a dense wooded area that we could barely see ten feet into. We grew more distressed and panicked, and then, when all seemed hopeless, Behrad asked, “Does anyone have cell service? Can we call for help?” After a scrambled and lengthy call, the park rangers were on their way. 

Not too soon after, we saw the light. Well, we saw the flashlight of two experienced hikers. We were so relieved to be with someone who knew the way out, and as we followed behind them one-by-one, we realized our mistake: that muddy stream on the edge of a deep-dark-never-ending forest? Yeah, that was the path.

Forty-five minutes later we were huffing and exhausted, but finally safe in our cars. Here’s the thing, we thought we were well prepared with first-aid gear, but we failed to remember flashlights, a map, park office numbers, and a few extra snacks. Although we are still amateur hikers, you bet your bottom that we now hike with a backpack full of safety equipment to avoid getting lost and injured again. 

The first time is a fluke, and the second time is a coincidence, but the third time’s a pattern. Our string of unfortunate cottaging events took a turn for the worst in the Kawarthas in May 2022. Behrad, Popsie, and I decided to go on another weekend trip, starting with a hike on a Ganaraska Forest trail. The hike itself was glorious, with scenic views of towering lush green trees, along a curved path of rich soil. Each turn there was something different—like a skinny edge walk beside a small waterfall with one trickling and relaxed stream. We even brought our essential hiking backpack with all of our equipment and wore our hiking boots for optimal grip. Back at our car, we breathed a sigh of relief, no bumps or hiccups on this hike. As we put our bags in the car, the first drops of rain hit our noses, as gray skies crackled in the distance. A storm was on its way. Crash! Loud and booming thunder shook the skies, as lightning pierced through the clouds. The storm was approaching faster than we thought. Just minutes after driving down the road, it started raining cats and dogs (and lions and tigers). In one fell swoop, gusts of wind slapped our car, rocking it side to side, almost pushing us off the road. With a tight grip around the steering wheel, I was shaking, not even considering the lineup of cars that accumulated behind me as I crept along at ten kilometres an hour. I had no choice. I couldn’t see the hood of the car.

The rain eventually slowed and then lifted, but what we saw as we drove back to our home-away-from-home was shocking. Broken hydro poles, snapped-in-half trees, and flattened barn roofs lined country roads. We turned into the host’s driveway and saw the greenhouse destroyed, pieces of trampoline littered about like matchsticks, and the yard in total shambles. It was heartbreaking to see a moment’s storm turn into inevitable weeks of repair. That night we stayed in their bunkie (instead of the teepee that we were planning on sleeping in that night), afraid of another weather tantrum. The next day, Kawartha Lakes and the surrounding area were powerless and littered with debris. People were outside starting to clean up their yards, and emergency services were fixing broken hydro poles, and clearing larger fallen trees. We were thankful for our safety during our brief stay and compassionate for those that had to face weeks and months of the aftermath of the derecho that swept through Ontario that May long weekend.

5 portage-trips in Algonquin for the adventure-seeker

That weekend we learned a third very important lesson, to not only watch the weather carefully but to be aware of any storm alerts. Being prepared for different weather conditions shouldn’t just be a lesson they teach you in Scouts, but one that all hikers and outdoor enthusiasts should know. 

On reflection, aside from discovering just how stunning our province is, and how helpful the folks are who live here, what we learned throughout this string of unfortunate events is that mishaps don’t always have to be unfortunate. We laughed without control, pondered without boundaries, chatted without any intention, made the best out of our situation, and learned the importance of being prepared with equipment and up-to-date with weather forecasts. Each of the trips weren’t what we planned, but I look back at those memories with kind eyes, and a greater appreciation for a different type of cottaging and road tripping. You win some, you lose some, and in our case, with a little luck and the goodwill of strangers, we won more than we bargained for.

 

Categories
Cottage Life

We all get lost sometimes. Here’s why

I know my way around our cottage woods pretty well. I can walk the path through the forest to the lake in the dark without a flashlight—my feet know the way. Between my family’s property, the neighbour’s lot, and the old farm on the other side, there are more than 100 acres to explore, crossed by deer trails and hydro corridors, creeks and valleys. I’ve been tromping over that land my whole life, so it was a shock when I got lost there last winter. 

My two daughters, my husband, Steve, and I strapped on our snowshoes late one bright, frigid afternoon in February. We’d been online all day, and cabin fever was imminent. Striking out northwestward from the cottage, we made our way up the long, gradual slope, stopping to look at lichen and bracket fungi, and to adjust the kids’ snowshoes when they came loose. 

We spotted a surprising number of intricate and convoluted mouse trails—with their small foot and long, straight tail prints—left on the untrammelled snow, moving between trees practically everywhere we looked. What the heck were they doing, we wondered. 

As the shadows started to lengthen, we made our way farther up, clambering around fallen trees. As we climbed, weariness began to outpace enthusiasm. At the top of the ridge, we came to a stand of hemlock where we discovered a couple of deer beds under the delicate branches. When had the animals last been there? Would a fawn snuggle up on its own in a small spot or beside its mama in a big one? We knew there were wolves around; we’d seen the remains of their deer kill a few weeks earlier. We felt relief on behalf of our imaginary deer family for the protection offered by a cliff like this. 

Standing in the shade of the dense cover, our feet and fingers started to feel cold. We decided to head back—but rather than following our original trail, we’d make a loop and trek down the steep side of the hill. It never occurred to me to register our location too closely; I had a general sense that ahead of us lay the creek that leads to the valley, and we trudged onwards, trusting the stream would funnel us to the road, where the going would be easier. 

We made our way down the hillside, into the glow of dusk, leaping from boulders into the soft, powdery snow with our big umbrella feet, shouting and laughing. We picked up sticks and became Jedi, exploring our way through a strange, frozen planet.

As the terrain levelled out down in the valley, I paused and felt my first pinprick of doubt. Everything looked flattish, the ground disguised by the deep drifts. Where was the creek? Which way was it from here? Was it hidden by the snow? Or perhaps—oh, no—with all that leaping we had swung north, parallel to the creek. Away from the road. 

Lightsabers forgotten, Steve and the kids were busy peeking into a hole in a tree—playing our usual “who do you think lives there?” game. I decided to check my phone—just to get my bearings, I told myself, not ready to admit that I was lost. Lost not on a foreign planet, but on the land I’d known so well for so long. I pulled it out and, of course, it crapped out in the cold. That pinprick of doubt was now feeling more like panic: I had not brought snacks. I had not brought a flashlight. No one knew we were even out. We were going to die here in the woods on an afternoon hike. 

✺✺✺

“Most of us have boundless confidence that we can always figure out where we are,” says Colin Ellard, a professor of psychology at the University of Waterloo. He tells me a story about a park ranger who was lost in the woods but had such conviction that he knew where he was that he decided his compass was wrong. “So he destroyed it—smashed it on a rock—because he was so frustrated. He felt, I know this way is north, but the compass was telling him it was this other direction.” Now, Ellard says, that ranger always takes two compasses into the bush.  

It’s comforting to hear that even experienced outdoors people can get disoriented. There’s a huge variation in humans’ ability to find our way around the environment, according to Giuseppe Iaria, a professor of cognitive neuroscience at the University of Calgary. “If you take 100 cottagers, the majority are going to be within the wide, normal range. They are not exceptional at orientation, and they also don’t have significant problems navigating.” One or two per cent of people have a profound inability to find their way, a condition called Developmental Topographical Disorientation, or DTD, which Iaria studies. But within the normal zone, “some people are fast in becoming familiar with their environment, some can take five to 10 times longer.” Depending on factors including age, sex, the opportunity to practice, and genetic factors, a person’s ability to find their way varies significantly. (Read more about his research on DTD and learn to navigate better at gettinglost.ca)

In the 1970s, scientists studied rats to try to understand how our brains navigate. When one of the study rats was in a specific location, cells in the hippocampus would fire. Over the course of a few years of work, the idea grew that this area of the brain might form some kind of “cognitive map.” In the last 50 years, Iaria says, we’ve learned it’s not just these place cells, as they were called, that help form mental maps. There are also directional head cells that fire when looking one way versus another, border cells that fire when walking around the boundaries of a space, and grid cells that fire in a pattern, forming a grid. All of these cells work together to help animals (including us) make sense of where they are in a given location. Recent research also points to the existence of time cells, which help us locate our memories not only in space, but in time. “The hippocampus seems to be a central clearing house for understanding where we are in the world,” says Colin Ellard. “Ideally placed near the centre of your brain, it receives a huge number of inputs and makes the story of where you are and how you got there.” 

So that’s where the magic happens, but the how is even more fascinating. The strategy that we use most commonly in getting around on a daily basis is procedural memory. Akin to muscle memory, it’s what lets us, say, drive to work while listening to the radio, explains Iaria. We don’t need to think about it—we’re on autopilot. “It’s essentially a system for the brain to keep up without using higher cognitive functions and to not be exhausted,” he says. Say at the cottage you have four places you go: the cottage itself, the dock, the boathouse, and the outhouse. It’s easy for your brain to remember the paths between those four points, and because you’ve walked them thousands of times, you don’t have to think about what turns to take—you could walk there in the dark. So we can move from A to B, B to A, A to C, C to D, etc. But, eventually, too many points are more than our brains can hold—about seven to 10 items in our short-term memory. “So the ideal situation would be to have a dynamic tool,” says Iaria, “one that allows us to go place-to-place without having too much load on our memory.” That tool is the cognitive map.

This map allows us to link up locations in our minds to form a spatial understanding of our surroundings. Because it’s dynamic, you can still direct yourself to the target location. “The cognitive map is what’s going to save your life,” Iaria says, not following one trail you’ve taken for 20 years. When you rely on that automatic muscle memory, you can go out in the dark, but as soon as you get off that trail—say there’s a tree blocking it, or you followed an interesting set of tracks—suddenly you don’t know your way back.

A mental map is more robust—and made stronger each time you move around in it. But these maps don’t always keep us from getting lost. Our cognitive map is full of distortions, Ellard says. “Often they only have a vague resemblance to reality, the way a subway map is a boiled-down geometric map.” We also tend to put our mental maps onto a framework (like a grid), which doesn’t always match reality. 

When my family headed out on our winter walk that day, we wanted to go farther afield than our more familiar route, which, during the pandemic, was starting to feel a little too familiar. Our walk was not in our procedural memory or on our cognitive map. When going into unfamiliar territory, we use landmarks to help us recognize our past movements. For most of us, “it’s easier in an urban environment to identify landmarks, such as Starbucks, or the SaveOnFoods, or ‘the beautiful, red building,’ ” says Iaria. “But in the woods, we get lost pretty quickly unless we have our wits about us,” says Ellard. The challenge when you’re in the forest or the mountains is to find the equivalent of the beautiful, red building. “Good explorers are the ones who are skilled enough to identify those,” says Iaria. The trees may all look the same superficially, but once you remark on the details that make one tree, one rock, one creekbend different from another, you’re using them as landmarks. You must be consciously looking for these critical details. 

In the case of our snowshoe hike, we were paying attention to the details around us—the fungi, the fallen trees, and the mouse trails. But when we decided to do a loop rather than a there-and-back route, those ceased to help. We were relying on another skill, one called path integration, that helps keep a running tally of where we are by remembering where we’ve been and how we got there. Ellard tells me about a time he got lost in Algonquin Provincial Park. “I did the thing you’re never supposed to do in that kind of place, which is to leave the path.

I had a map, but rather than following the path, I thought, If I cut a straight line through, I’ll find the trail and save myself time.” After Ellard understood he was lost, and finally figured out where he was, he realized that rather than moving in a straight line, he’d actually turned 180 degrees. “That kind of thing happens all the time,” he says—as with the compass-smashing ranger. Whether you’re walking in the woods or are in a boat in a fog, holding course can be extremely difficult. As a species, he says, “we can’t accurately keep track of our past movements to maintain our sense of where we are very well at all.” Researchers have done experiments where people are unleashed in the woods and told to simply walk in a straight line. We can’t do it. We have natural asymmetries that tend to make us go in one direction. It seems like an easy thing to know what direction we’re travelling, but it’s not. 

As we went up the hill away from the cottage, my cognitive map grew increasingly fuzzy, like crossing onto the part of an old-timey explorer’s map labelled, “Here be dragons.” When we went down the hillside, leaving landmarks behind, picking our way around obstacles and across a snow-covered landscape, trying to reach the road, my path integration got thrown for a loop—literally. 

But what about that instinct to check my phone’s map on that winter day? It’s a useful crutch, one that has often helped me get unlost in the city and along unfamiliar country roads. Before phones got so smart, I would chart out my route on the paper map I kept in my glove compartment and stop along the way to check my progress or ask for help. With the ubiquity of GPS on our phones, are our brains out of practice? Even lazy?

It’s not that our brains are lazy, exactly—but if we always orient within the same familiar environment, and then only use GPS when going to an unfamiliar place, “yeah, we are going to lose some of those skills,” Iaria says. “The brain is one of the most plastic organs we have. We think of it as being good, and then it declines. But from a neurological perspective, the brain changes daily.” It’s constantly optimizing. That’s useful if you want to pick up a new skill—or learn new directions. There are all kinds of studies that have been done on the hippocampus, including famous experiments with London cab drivers who undergo arduous training in wayfinding to prepare for a test known, charmingly, as “The Knowledge.” The research found that learning the city’s layout and the many routes within it seems to strengthen the drivers’ brains.

“But the bad news is that the brain does not like to waste resources,” Iaria says. So if you’re not using those important skills, the connectivity that supports that behaviour is not there anymore. “Essentially, it’s ‘use it or lose it.’ If there’s brain function, it’s there for a reason. If there’s no function, it gets reorganized into something else.” 

So if we’re using GPS all the time, we’re not keeping up our navigation skills, which was the finding of a study out of McGill University by researchers Louise Dahmani and Veronique Bohbot. They found that the more often people used GPS in their lifetimes, the worse their spatial memory became when navigating without GPS. Furthermore, the researchers found a noticeable decline in the spatial memory of people who used GPS over a three-year period—in sort of a corollary to the London cabbie experiment. If we don’t want to lose our skills, what should we do? Should we stop using GPS altogether? 

Navigation is a challenge for people, especially at a time when we travel far and fast, so there’s no problem with getting help from apps and tools on devices. “I use one myself,” Iaria admits. “I just use it strategically—if I’m going to a new place or to keep from being late. Or if I’m not interested in learning where that place is.”

On the other hand, there are times when we should practice without that crutch. “If I’m in a new town and have dedicated time to explore, I don’t use a GPS. I may use a map to get a sense of where things are,” Iaria says, “but that’s where it’s important to use our cognitive skills.” At the cottage, he suggests exploring an area of about one square kilometre, learning to discern landmarks as you go, and then expanding from there. As you explore, you learn to connect them together. Unlike when we’re in our hometown, where we get around between our usual destinations using that procedural or automatic approach, in a new place, you can practice building a cognitive map, decreasing the unmapped parts of your world. 

Obviously, we made it out of the woods alive that day. After my phone died in the cold, I quietly admitted to Steve I wasn’t sure where we were. He calmly assured me to stay the course. We kept walking—with me trying not to freak out—when suddenly we made out the curve of the road, lit slightly brighter where the tree canopy parted. Everything snapped back into place, and I was no longer lost. It’s an embarrassing story to tell, especially because we came out to the road almost in sight of the cottage. 

But that embarrassment bore me an important lesson. I will learn to be more like the mice whose trails we saw in the snow. I’ll add my own criss-crossed tracks all over the forest floor—connecting trees and rocks in my mind—and build a map where no dragons can hide. 

This article originally appeared in the May 2022 issue of Cottage Life.

 

Categories
Cottage Life

What three words can save your life?

If you were in an emergency, what three words would you choose to get help to your location as quickly as possible? Smartphone’s GPS services are not 100 per cent reliable and, even street addresses can be too vague.

A new application, what3words, has assigned every three square metres in the world a unique and precise address, using three distinct words. The words are randomly assigned to each square and are unchanging.

Ontario emergency services are increasingly using the app to find people who are lost, like a 70-year-old Huron County man who lost his way going out one day in April and was not rescued until 6 a.m. the following day.

The Ontario Provincial Police (OPP) introduced the app to locals December 1, 2020, and since, provincial communication centre agents recognize and are trained to coordinate emergency rescues with the app. What3words uses minimal cellular data to generate the three-word address. If the caller does not have the app already, dispatchers can send a link that can quickly generate the address.

“It’s a real game changer for us in the north,” says Andrew Hurlbut, the boating, safety, and emergencies rep for the Georgian Bay Association (GBA).

When the app launched, Hurlbut thought, Wow. The Georgian Bay itself spans 15,000 square kilometres. When you include the kilometres of coast and its 30,000 islands, “there are all kinds of places you can disappear,” Hurlbut says.

While longitude and latitude coordinates are just as precise, the three-metre-square approach is easier for the everyday person to relay over the phone, Hurlbut finds. This is why the association is actively encouraging their members to adopt the app.

“Whether I’m at my dock, whether I’m out back, whether I’m off to the side in the woods, or on my particular island…it makes that kind of rescue that much easier,” says Shannon Farquharson, the GBA’s communication and executive services coordinator. “My in-laws, who are in their 80s, have it on their phones, and my son, who is 11, has it on his. It’s something that anybody of any age can use, and can figure out how to use in a hurry,” she says. The GBA wants the bulk of their members to be at least aware of the app, and hopefully also start downloading it and using it.

Before technology like what3words, people relied more on themselves and good samaritans, Hurlbut says. Not long ago, marine radios were used to contact the Coast Guard—an asset in and around Georgian Bay, he adds—and rescues went from there, often coordinated by the Coast Guard Auxiliary volunteers dotted around the bay. Otherwise, boaters relied on paper charts.

“Imagine,” Hurlbut says. “Big waves, rolling thunder and winds and this map is blowing around,” he says. “Technology has been a boon to boating safety.” He reminds us that outdoor safety starts with a few basics: “If you’re travelling out, it’s best not to go alone. Go with someone, and notify people of what your intentions are, where you’re going, and when you expect to get there, so people know to look for you when you don’t show up.”

For emergencies at your cottage, Hurlbut says to consider giving the three-word address for your dock if it’s the easiest access point to your property. Before you go off hiking in the woods, figure out the what3word start point and end point. This is useful for trips on foot and boats. “You can be 3,000 metres off and it can point you back in the direction you came from.”

Farquharson says the app can also help you mark, for example, a picnic spot you found and want to get back to. “Every family on the Bay,” she says, “has a story about a rescue.” On the Bay, she adds, quoting Hurlbut, “you’re your own first responder and you have to rely on yourself first.” A tool like what3words makes the responsibility a little less daunting. “If I can pull out my phone and say ‘911 can get me’, it’s a load off.”