Tag: maintenance

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Cottage Life

4 mouse-proofing strategies wacky enough to work

By Viacheslav Lopatin/Shutterstock

Got mice? Desperate times call for wildly desperate rodent-proofing. We ran four extreme strategies past the experts to find out if these wacky moves could actually work. (The answers will surprise you.)

1. Install a live owl
Or some other wild predator. A weasel. A family of martens. A snake. Maybe all of them at the same time.

Would it work? Sure would. “The presence of a predator in the cabin would deter mice from seeking refuge in the first place,” says Tom Sullivan, a professor emeritus of wildlife ecology and conservation at UBC.

Feasible-o-meter says Low. You might just be trading one bad roommate for another, possibly worse, roommate—one that regurgitates all the time and, by the way, isn’t actually that wise.

Cottage Q&A: Where did all the mice go?

2. Ditch the cottage; build a concrete bunker

The rest of the lake will hate you, but when the Doomsday Clock strikes midnight—vindicated!

Would it work? Well, yes. It’s not likely that mice could gnaw through a concrete wall, says Gary Ure of Second Nature Wildlife Management in Gananoque, Ont. Unfortunately, they could gnaw through everything else. So a windowless, doorless bunker, with no plumbing, electricity, or air supply, would really be the way to go.

Feasible-o-meter says Low. You’d never get a permit. (Pfft. Building officials.)

6 secrets to successful mouse trapping

3. Source tons of cats. No, wait. Source tons of cat urine
And spray it all over the place. Gather used kitty litter in decorative bowls, and set them out like potpourri.

Would it work? Not reliably. “Mice may avoid predator odours for a while, but longevity and consistency of repellency has so far eluded us,” says Sullivan. “I have worked on this problem for many years.”

Feasible-o-meter says Medium. Because the man’s not giving up: “I still think the idea has great potential,” says Sullivan.

Cottage Q&A: How do I keep mice out of my ATV?

4. Establish a decoy building
You’ve heard of the Decoy Wallet, right?

Would it work? Yes. If your somewhat mouse-proofed cottage is beside one that is not mouse-proofed at all, the mice will go for the easier target. Mice are opportunistic, says Ure. “They’re like us. Or maybe we’re like them.”

Feasible-o-meter says High. But only if your close neighbours are the laziest humans on earth.

Build it, fix it, get it done!

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Categories
Cottage Life

How to thaw a frozen pipe before it bursts

By Phonlamai Photo/Shutterstock

1. Act quickly. Start troubleshooting as soon as you notice a drop or stop in water pressure. A small ice blockage can be quickly thawed, but wait too long and you may have to contend with burst pipes.

2. Turn off the water supply and have a mop and bucket on standby.

3. Turn up the heat. If part of your plumbing is frozen, chances are other areas may be at risk. Turn up your heat tape and heating to prevent anything else from freezing.

Cottage Q&A: Should we heat our empty cottage?

4. Locate the frozen area. Turn faucets on and off along the plumbing line to find the affected area. If you get no water or just a trickle, the pipe leading to that faucet is likely frozen. Frosted pipes are a telltale sign of a frozen section. Invest in an infrared thermometer gun ($30-$100) and take temperature readings along the line until you find the frozen section. (I have also found these devices handy for troubleshooting an overheating engine, monitoring a woodburning stove, and achieving the perfect dough temperature for baking sourdough bread.)

5. Thaw the frozen section by wrapping an electric heating pad around the pipe. Ensure the affected faucet is open to relieve pressure on the system as it thaws. Alternatively, use a portable space heater or a hair dryer. Start at the section nearest the faucet and work your way back, applying heat until full water pressure has returned.

6. If your pipes have already burst or you arrive at the cottage to find the plumbing frozen solid, it’s probably time to call the plumber.

This article was originally published in the Winter 2021 issue of Cottage Life.

Categories
Cottage Life

7 tips to keep your plumbing from freezing

By Paul Tessier/Shutterstock

Getting water to the cottage is only half the battle. Reduce the risk of your indoor plumbing freezing with these tips.

1) Open cupboard doors below your sinks so that warm air can circulate and get to plumbing on the back wall.

2) Open interior doors to promote consistent temperatures throughout the cottage.

3) Seal up holes or cracks around cables and sill plates that allow cold air to blow in.

4) Insulate or install heating cable in sensitive areas (e.g., unheated basement or plumbing that runs on an exterior wall).

5) Have a backup power source. Jeremy Begin, the owner of Cottage Country Plumbing in Bracebridge, Ont., recommends having a generator on hand to power heaters and heating cable in the event of a power outage.

6) Set the heat to at least 13°C when you’re not at the cottage and don’t turn the thermostat down at night.

7) Ask someone to keep an eye on things while you’re away. “Have a property manager, maintenance person, or friend check on your property,” says Begin. Ideally, every couple of days, but at least once a week. He most frequently gets calls about frozen pipes in January, when the temperatures drop to -30°C or -40°C overnight.

This article was originally published in the Winter 2021 issue of Cottage Life magazine.

Categories
Cottage Life

3 fixes for malfunctioning fans

By Africa Studio/Shutterstock

Like any appliance, you don’t really think about the fans in your house until they’re not working. And, according to Murphy’s Law, a house or cottage fan will stop working precisely when you need it the most. Here are some tips and tricks to keep your room and ceiling fans running, and potential DIY fixes for when they conk out.

1) Power fails

The first step in figuring out why a fan isn’t working is to check the power supply. For room fans, make sure that a tug on the cord hasn’t pulled the plug out. Next, head to the fuse or circuit panel to make sure that hasn’t tripped. Finally, try plugging in a functioning appliance like a lamp or vacuum to test if the outlet itself is working.

If your ceiling fan remote doesn’t work, try replacing the batteries. If that’s not it, turn the power off, remove the canopy, and check to make sure none of the wiring connections have come apart.

If you turn on a fan and hear a humming sound but it won’t spin—or your ceiling fan lights work but the motor won’t turn—the motor may be dead. Check with the manufacturer to see if a replacement motor is available. Depending on the quality of the fan, it may be more cost-effective to buy a new one.

8 tune-ups to extend the life of your appliances

2) Wobbly fans

An off-balance ceiling fan can be noisy and eventually damage the motor. Start by gently cleaning off any dust that’s accumulated on the top and edges of the blades.

Next, tighten all the screws holding the blades in place. You’ll also want to remove the canopy cover so you can tighten the mounting screws holding the unit to the ceiling.

While you’re up on the ladder, measure the distance from the tip of each blade to the ceiling. They should all be within about 1/8” of each other. If not, tighten the screws that hold the blade brackets to the motor to level them up.

If that doesn’t work, buy a fan balancing kit. These come with a plastic clip to that you attach to the blades one at a time, turning the fan on each time to try to figure out which blade is unbalanced. Once you’ve done that, attach one of the stick-on weights included in the kit to correct the issue.

It’s time to fix that wobbly chair leg

3) Noisy fans

Tightening all the screws on your ceiling fan might help eliminate any noises. If not, try spraying some silicone lubricant on the bearings.

If you hear a clinking sound while your ceiling fan is spinning, tighten the nuts that hold the glass globes in place. If that doesn’t fix the problem, the bulbs you’re using might be too big for the fixture.

How to fix a blown fuse on your stove

Categories
Cottage Life

Keep paddling! 3 easy ways to care for your canoe

Illustration by Jacques Perrault

Sometimes, it’s the little things we do that best show our affection. In celebration of Canada’s most beloved paddling vessel, here are three easy ways to care for your canoe that will boost its longevity.

illustration of a hand painting resin on the bottom of a canoe
Illustration by Jacques Perrault

1. Install skid plates

A canoe’s stems, the curved ends, see more rough treatment than any other part of the hull, especially if your paddling style involves scraping over rocky river beds or running ashore. When the gelcoat wears thin at the bow and stern, or if you’re planning some abrasive whitewater paddling, it’s time to install skid plates—strips of Kevlar felt, applied with a two-part resin to reinforce and protect these vulnerable areas. It’s a job that you can do yourself with kits available from your canoe’s manufacturer. The plates prolong the life of the canoe while minimally impacting weight and performance.

man applying protectant to the bottom of a canoe, illustration
Illustration by Jacques Perrault

2. Apply a protectant

As with human skin, UV damage will age a canoe’s gelcoat. Canoe manufacturers suggest applying a protectant to the exterior of your hull to reduce fading and cracking at least three times a season. Nova Craft Canoe, a canoe manufacturer in Ontario, recommends 303 Aerospace Protectant, a water-based formula that works like a spray-on sunscreen, protecting surfaces from UV rays. It can also be used to protect paddling gear, including life jackets, helmets, and neoprene wetsuits.

man oiling the gunwales of a canoe, illustration
Illustration by Jacques Perrault

3. Oil the gunwales

Glistening brightwork makes the heart sing, but that gloss also protects exposed wood. Left untreated, wood gunwales—which are usually ash—weather to a rough, grey surface that eventually rots. Don’t use polyurethane here; gunwales need to flex, which will cause varnish to crack. Instead, use boiled linseed oil or hemp seed oil—Canadian-grown because you’re feeling patriotic. Start by sanding off any grey. Apply two or three coats of oil using a lint-free rag, allowing the finish to dry overnight between coats. Freshen three or four times a year by running an oiled rag over the rails.