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Cottage Q&A: Should we consider a metal roof?

We have a three-season cottage with a cathedral ceiling. It will soon be time to replace our asphalt shingles. Should we consider a metal roof?—John, via email

Metal—strong, lightweight, low maintenance, long lasting, and weather resistant—is absolutely worth considering. Just do your research before you pull the trigger on this upgrade. “Metal roofing is great, but it comes with a warning,” says Jim Watson of J. Watson Roofing Consulting on Vancouver Island. “Don’t go there without a proper assessment first.”

No surprises here: “If a metal roof is installed incorrectly, the chances of it failing are much higher,” says Max Guerra, the general manager of New Steel Roofers in Hamilton, Ont. That’s an extra-hard kick in the pants if you’ve just spent thousands of dollars on something that was supposed to last 50 years or more.

Get to know 9 different roof types

Get a reputable roof contractor with expertise in metal. “It’s a specialized area of installation,” says Curtis Sinclair, a Calgary-based national senior project manager with General Roofing Systems Canada. And architectural standing-seam roofing, which he says is common for cottages, “is a particularly specialized category.”

According to both Watson and Sinclair, one potential issue with metal roofs is condensation buildup. “They tend to sweat from underneath,” says Sinclair. No bigs, if you plan around that with proper ventilation. Sinclair recommends this general calculation: one square foot of ventilation per 300 sq. ft. of roof. Also, Guerra says that a synthetic, breathable vapour barrier over the entire roof can help prevent condensation damage to the decking.

How to deal with a leaky roof

Got a question for Cottage Q&A? Send it to answers@cottagelife.com.

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Cottage Q&A: Should I use vinyl flooring in my unheated cottage?

We are removing the 1960s yellow shag carpeting in our three-season cottage and considering vinyl flooring instead. Which vinyl should we use? We want waterproof. And we want something guaranteed not to shrink or expand.Cathy O’Brien, via email

Go with “floating” (as opposed to glued-down) vinyl planks or tiles, and look for a product designed for cold spaces or temperature fluctuations. One option is SPC (stone plastic composite) vinyl planks, says John Haswell of Quality Red Tag Floors in Edmonton. 

Will it shrink or expand? Yes. But that’s kind of the point. “All floating floors expand and contract,” says Haswell. They’re meant to move without individual pieces buckling, since during installation, you leave an expansion gap around the floor’s perimeter. 

Cottage Q&A: Best shed flooring options

And vinyl floors are, by nature, waterproof, says Shannon Currie, a sales manager with Taylor Carpet One Floor & Home in Huntsville, Ont. Waterproof within reason, in that vinyl can stand up to water falling on top of it as opposed to water seeping through from underneath.

“Vinyl is basically a plastic, to dumb it down a whole lot,” says Currie. “Most vinyl flooring is guaranteed waterproof for up to a certain number of hours.” So, the floor would be fine if, for example, the cat knocked over a glass of water, and it took a day for anyone to notice the spill, she says—assuming, of course, you installed the floor correctly, with a silicone bead around the perimeter to stop any water from getting in that way.

But, c’mon. It’s the cottage. You’re not concerned about water glasses and cats. Three months’ worth of water from a leaking roof in the spring likely would damage the floor. As it would pretty much any floor. But with click-together vinyl planks, it’s often possible to remove wet pieces, dry them out, and reinstall or replace them, says Currie. 

Cottage Q&A: Dealing with buckling laminate flooring

Not sold on vinyl yet? There are plenty of other flooring options available. And all of them will be better than yellow shag carpet.

This article was originally published in the September/October 2022 issue of Cottage Life magazine.

Got a question for Cottage Q&A? Email answers@cottagelife.com.

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Cottage Q&A: What does selling “as is” mean?

My wife and I are looking to buy a cottage. The owners are selling it “as is.” Is this common? And is buying a cottage that’s being sold “as is” a good idea?Bewildered Buyer

It’s not uncommon. Selling “as is” usually means: what you see is what you’re buying. The owners aren’t prepared to fix any problems discovered during an inspection. But there are different reasons for this language—it’s not always code for reno nightmare. “The term ‘as is’ can be a little ambiguous,” says Judy Forster of Forster Realty in Regina Beach, Sask. It’s typical in an estate sale or in a situation where the bank has foreclosed on a cottage. After all, “if the owners aren’t around, you can’t ask them to fix anything,” says Chris Winney, a broker with Royal LePage ProAlliance Realty in Northbrook, Ont.

15 real estate terms for first-time buyers

Other possibilities: the sellers don’t have the cash to deal with the fixes that the cottage needs, or they suddenly inherited the cottage and have no interest in tackling any renos. Or “as is” may have nothing to do with the condition, says Wayne William Heine, with EdmontonLakeProperty.com in Spruce Grove, Alta. These owners could be using the term to indicate that they want to sell the contents of the cottage too. “Some people say, ‘Hey, I just want to take my personal belongings and walk out of here.’ For buyers, that might be a good thing.” Especially if the owners leave behind a valuable comic book collection or bottles of 70-year-old malt whisky! (What? It could happen.)

A real estate agent’s tips for buying a cottage sight unseen

Still—and this goes for buying any cottage, in any condition—as a buyer, you have to do your due diligence. Get all the necessary inspections—duh—but also gather as much intel about the lot, the area, the lake, and the local politics as you can. Winney’s tips include reading at least three issues of the regional newspaper, visiting the property at different times of the day, and talking to the neighbours. “Almost anything that’s wrong with the cottage is fixable, but the environmental factors aren’t,” she says. “And if someone is putting pressure on you to make a decision, walk away. There are other properties out there.”

Got a question for Cottage Q&A? Send it to answers@cottagelife.com.

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Need a new roof? Here are 3 eco options

Battered by weather and baked by sun, a landing spot for birds and branches, we ask a lot of what lies above. But perhaps we can ask just a bit more of our cottage roofs—to not only keep us dry and protected but also to lighten our overall carbon load as well. 

Grow a roof and regulate interior temperature

Ian MacDonald is an architect who spent 20 years in his old cottage on Go Home Bay, Ont., before he tore down the cabin and built a new one. In those two decades, he says, he learned what he appreciated about the location and the space, but more importantly, he saw what he wanted to change. One change he sought was to make the cottage more sustainable. He originally planned to install solar panels, then switched gears to a green roof, which would better control just how hot the cottage became in the summer without relying on AC. 

A green roof is essentially a growing roof, alive with organic material. It starts with a rubber membrane, followed by a layer of soil, then the growing material. “Living, green roofs can be very simple and very low maintenance,” says Karen Liu, a green roof specialist with Next Level Stormwater Management in Vancouver. They run the gamut, Liu says, from something people actually go on to enjoy nature, to roofs focussed on adding biodiversity that attract birds and bees. There are even roofs that blend into their surroundings.

MacDonald’s shift in plan to a green roof did require some adjustments. “You would normally have 25 to 35 pounds per square foot of extra capacity to carry a green roof,” MacDonald says. His roof was structured to handle 10 pounds per square foot, “so I went searching for another green roof system.” He settled on a German system called Zero Floor. It required 14 pounds per square foot of support, “a very small deviation,” says MacDonald, and one that fell within the margin of safety required by engineers. 

The organic starter material began as mostly sedum, a low-growing, thick-leaved perennial, though it’s shifted over the years, thanks to birds who will occasionally poop out different seeds, which then take root. “The roof has taken on a life of its own,” says MacDonald. 

The roof requires little more than occasional watering, which MacDonald does by pumping water from the lake up to the roof using a domestic water system made of standard irrigation piping. He gives it a good 20-minute soak. There is a roughly half-inch drainage layer that shouldn’t get plugged—pine needles are the most frequent culprit—so about once a year, MacDonald goes around the edges of the roof with a leaf blower to make sure it’s all clear. 

But although establishing a green roof looks as simple as seeding a lawn, MacDonald encourages people to let the experts handle it. People who try to do it themselves, “can get into really deep trouble,” he says, noting that the membrane technology can be finicky, and installers are typically certified and trained for the job.

MacDonald’s green roof gives him just what he seeks at the lake. “The natural landscape up north is why people go there,” he says. “You want to be in nature—in a building that can allow you to appreciate what is important.”

 

Meet solar shingles

The past decade has seen an 80 per cent decrease in the cost of solar energy for residential use and a consequent increase in the number of homes and cottages that have installed panels. The next generation of solar technology—which is available but not yet ubiquitous—is photovoltaic (PV) shingles. The roofing material itself acts as a panel.

Katherine Zhou, the co-founder of PV Tech, a Canadian PV shingle company based in Toronto, explains that the shingles, made from an aluminum frame and tempered glass, are like any roofing material and don’t require any additional structural support. They don’t typically cover an entire roof, but rather are located where they maximize the sun’s rays, usually a south-facing slope. An alternate roofing material is used for the remainder. A minimum of a 3/12 slope is required. Anything less than that is considered a flat roof and “this is not designed for flat roofs,” Zhou says. “It would lead water in the wrong direction.” A roof shaded by trees is also not a good candidate, unless you’re willing to cut down or prune any trees that are preventing direct exposure to the sun. 

To be “energy independent”—that is, to produce as much energy as you’re using—you would generally need about 500 sq. ft. of PV shingles on a south-facing roof. The roof requires 500 sq. ft. of direct exposure to the sun for the shingles to produce between 7,000 and 8,000 kilowatt hours of electricity a year, which powers the typical home. 

For a seasonal cottage, that figure is still a good general rule. The panels are easy to maintain. They can withstand hail and wind, and they’re designed so that snow melts off in the winter; you only need to clear tree branches and debris if they build up.

The advantage of shingles over panels is that if a roof requires replacing, panels need to be removed to access the roof itself (and then you’ll have to pay to have them reinstalled). PV shingles, on the other hand, are warrantied for 25 years, but should last the lifetime of the building, so there’s no reason to remove them. 

PV shingles cost more than typical roofing materials—they’re comparable to a metal roof, starting around $16,000—but you can apply for a federal green home grant of $5,000. Ottawa is the first city in Ontario to offer no-interest loans to install PV shingles, but Toronto is rumoured to be following suit. 

PV shingles with an Energy Storage System package are particularly attractive to cottagers, says Zhou. “Whenever there is a power outage, a solar shingle roof and energy storage system will power the house for two to four days.”

 

Make your roof reflect heat

The term “cool roof” refers not to the roofing material, but to a coating or colour that gives any roof a high solar reflectance (SR). The material reflects the sun’s rays as opposed to absorbing them. This reflectance keeps a roof (and therefore the building beneath it) cooler.

But while cool roofs are generating some buzz, they don’t make much sense (or cents) in Canada, where our need to heat year-round homes typically trumps our need to cool them, explains Karen Liu. In cooler climates, cool roofs create what’s called a “heating penalty,” she says. This means any savings the cool roof generates thanks to a reduced need to cool a home during hot months is eclipsed by the increased cost of having to heat that home during cold months. 

However, for a summer-only dwelling where cooling is the priority, it’s an affordable option. Cool roofs include light-coloured metal roofs, roofs made of PVC membranes, or even asphalt roofs coated in light-coloured granules (which are not as reflective as the other options but, for the budget conscious, they’re still better than a dark-coloured roof). Or, you can paint a reflective white coating onto your existing roof. (Yep, even onto asphalt shingles—though check that it doesn’t void your warranty.) While white roof paints on the market reflect anywhere from 30 to 60 per cent of solar rays, researchers at Purdue University in Indiana have developed a barium sulfate-based paint that reflects 98.1 per cent of rays. 

Sounds pretty…cool. 

This article was originally published in the August 2022 issue of Cottage Life.

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Why you should use these paint colours in your cottage (or not)

Disclaimer: We didn’t consult any design or real estate experts for this article. That should become immediately obvious.

Thinking of selling your cottage? Thinking of renovating to sell it in the future? Then you should think about paint colours. At least, according to a new survey by real estate marketing company Zillow you should. Zillow surveyed more than 3,000 “recent or prospective Canadian home buyers” to gather feedback on their reactions to images of different rooms painted different colours. How interested were they in touring or buying the place? How much would they pay? The results were…confusing. Still, what lessons can cottagers take from all this? We’ve broken it down.

Survey says: Canadian buyers were willing to pay more—about $6,500 more—for a place with charcoal grey kitchens, bathrooms, bedrooms, and living areas. 

Lesson for the cottage owner: Charcoal grey the hell out of everything. Paint the porch grey. Paint the closets grey. Got a bunkie? Grey it up. Buy a grey dog, and include it in the listing photos.

Survey says: Even though green kitchens and bathrooms are trendy—wait, they are?—buyers would pay less for them. And don’t even think about painting your kitchen sunshine yellow. According to the results, yellow kitchens, and for that matter, living rooms, were “generally unpopular.” Well, obviously. Why would anyone pay for sunshine when they can get the real thing for free? Blue kitchens and white kitchens scored higher.

Lesson for the cottage owner: Paint your kitchen blue and white. Better yet, paint your kitchen ceiling blue with white puffy clouds, like the ceiling in the Venetian hotel in Las Vegas. You’ll be bringing the outside inside! 

Survey says: Burgundy is big in bathrooms—for people who speak French. Apparently, buyers from Montreal would be willing to pay up to, roughly, $4,400 more for places with burgundy bathrooms.

Lesson for the cottage owner: If you can’t source a paint called Burgundy, go with Bordeaux, Merlot, Berry, or, in a pinch, Maroon. Just don’t paint your cottage powder room the colour of fresh blood. That smacks of serial killer.

Survey says: Contrary to the results suggesting that people don’t like green, buyers from Calgary would pay several thousand more for a mint green kitchen.

Lesson for the cottage owner: According to Zillow, “When study participants thought the homeowner had similar tastes to them, they perceived the home more positively and were also more likely to make an offer more than $2,000 higher.” So, give prospective buyers from Calgary mint chocolate chip ice cream as soon as they enter your mint-green kitchen. Double the mint, double the offer! Unless, like many people, they think mint chocolate chip is gross because “it tastes like toothpaste.” In which case, you’ve shot yourself in the foot. And now you’re left with a mint-green kitchen and a freezer full of polarizing ice cream. Sorry.

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Help! I share the cottage with a DIY dud

Q: “My family shares a cottage with my parents and cousins from both sides. I am not very handy, but a few of my cousins are DIYers who insist on doing all cottage repairs. Normally this would be a good thing, but they usually do a very poor job and a lot of projects have to be done twice, which is a waste of time. I have suggested that paying someone to do the job right the first time would be money well spent, but they say any tradesperson would just ‘rip us off,’ even though we have never hired one before. No one in my family wants to rock the boat because my cousins are good people, but I’m getting tired of paying twice for materials. How can I change this situation?”

A: Having single-handedly staffed the Shared Cottage Complaint Hotline for the last while, I can safely say that your cohabitation experience is fairly unique because most family squabbles about fix-it stuff pivot around a central axis of laziness. Usually, this means family members are unwilling to help with chores and maintenance, sometimes to the point of defiant work avoidance. But it can also manifest itself in that special form of indolence where human arms are so lazy that they cannot reach down to pick up a purse or a wallet, or peck out an e-transfer on a smartphone. Sadly, at many shared places, sloth and stinginess walk hand in hand.

You are in an unusual bind. Like your cousins, many DIY enthusiasts—particularly the new, heavily bearded kind who refer to themselves as “makers”—are loathe to spend money on any task they could imagine performing themselves. It doesn’t matter that they have never installed a 200-amp electrical service panel before. How hard could it be? That’s why YouTube exists. Besides, they saw Mike Holmes do it once, and it only took his guy 22 minutes. Bear in mind that these are “normal” DIYers we are talking about. Your cousins are outliers because they see contractors as rip-off artists rather than hired help, and they appear to be extreme in their aversion to paying a professional to ensure professional results.

For regular DIYers, doing things themselves is all about pride, personal accomplishment, and a desire to learn a new skill. But because your cousins have comingled those same qualities with miserliness and suspicion, it will be very difficult to convince them to pay actual money for professional help, even if it is badly needed. And it’s curious that they repeatedly botch jobs only to redo them. Because while enthusiasm is a big part of DIY DNA, most of us have enough self-awareness to identify a job that is just too large, too complex, or too dangerous to tackle. That’s when you hire someone who is smarter and owns the proper tools and equipment to do the job. Having to redo a project you just finished last year? It’s proof positive you were never up to the job in the first place. But ultimately, it depends on the project: messing up a garden planter is no big whoop but screwing up more serious repairs, like plumbing or electrical or major roof fixes, will have serious and expensive consequences.

I guess you could try to convene a family meeting and lobby to raise money for some badly needed work, but I fear you’d be in for a rough ride. If expenses are shared evenly, your cousins won’t want to pay a red cent. And you might find that other members of your family suffer from alligator arms and are happy to put up with someone else’s half-assed job if it costs them little or nothing. To complicate matters, you would be operating in a perilous zone of hurt feelings, given that your cousins mean well and work hard, no matter how poor the result.

I recently spoke to a cottager with the reverse of your problem. His uncle, a retired contractor, also insisted on doing all the repairs and upgrades at a multi-family cottage. He had the talent and the tools, and any work done was of the highest quality. But he worked very slowly, with many stops and starts, so small projects took forever and big ones never ended. But he always had an excuse for slow progress and was adamant that a pro would take just as long and do a substandard job. Talk about a no-win situation. The guy is slow, but he does really good work for free. How do you find fault with that without looking like a total jerk?

Short of putting up with the status quo, I can see only two ways forward in this stalemate and both will cost you a lot of money. In a weak bid to minimize hurt feelings, you could make a pitch to the group that identifies specific jobs and suggest that money for them could be voluntarily contributed by family members. It’s a crapshoot. If everyone else votes to chip in, your handy cousins might cave under pressure and cough up some dough. But if they refuse to participate, the dominoes could fall, and you might be left with meagre or nonexistent support.

Agreement in any group is difficult. When the group is related by blood, consensus is usually impossible, sometimes just because when they were both 12, Kate gave Justin a wedgie in front of all the kids at the regatta. My advice, if you can afford it, is to simply pull an end-run around the whole family and personally pay to have a job that is important to you performed by a competent tradesperson. Secure a contractor well in advance, and try to schedule the work for a time when no one else is around. When the dust has settled, tell your cousins you feel terrible because they work so hard, and you can’t even swing a hammer. Mention their dedication and selflessness. Your kin might grumble, but I bet they’ll take the compliment. I’d also give 50/50 odds that other family members will feel pangs of conscience and toss some bucks your way. Or maybe they won’t. It’s actually quite impossible to know. But when you share a cottage with extended family, the relative who risks nothing, gains nothing.

This article was originally published in the June/July 2022 issue of Cottage Life magazine.

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Cottage Q&A: Best paint for an aluminum boat

I want to paint the bottom of my aluminum boat. The original paint is chipping off. I was going to use a spray-paint primer, but I’m concerned about the environment. Is there another approach? And after the colour, do I need a clear topcoat?—Mel David, via email

While nobody’s going to argue that spray paint is good for the environment—it does release volatile organic compounds—it’s at least not as bad as it used to be. Today’s spray paints no longer contain chlorofluorocarbon propellants. (Countries began banning those in 1978.)

A spray-paint primer is convenient, but if you don’t want to use one, don’t. Brad Schmidt, a specialist with the Yacht Division of AkzoNobel, suggests a thinned-down epoxy primer instead. You can apply it with a brush or a roller; a thinner formula “will allow the primer to get into all the nooks and crannies” of the boat. Follow with a multi-purpose epoxy primer before you put on your colour; use a marine-grade polyurethane paint.

None of our experts thought that you’ll need a clear coat overtop. But everyone emphasized—repeatedly—how important prep is going to be. “Painting aluminum is always tricky,” says Schmidt. “It’s a different beast.”

Five painting tips that our experts swear by

Sanding properly is key—you need to remove every bit of that old, chipping paint. “Everything needs to be sanded down,” says Ryan Mack, the owner of Northern Lakes Boat Works in Gravenhurst, Ont. “You can’t bond to bad paint.” 

Shop around for the right products first. Plenty of companies have coatings for marine applications, says Gary Wedemeyer, a product specialist with the Automotive/Marine Aftermarket Division of 3M. It’s easy to find info on application procedures on their websites, so you can investigate before you buy. “I have personally applied a high-quality marine-grade exterior enamel to the bottom of a 12-foot aluminum boat using a brush and roller,” says Wedemeyer. “I cleaned and scuffed the surface according to the paint company’s recommendations, and I didn’t topcoat it.” A few years later? His tinny is still looking great.

Happy painting! Or, uh, cleaning, cleaning again; sanding, more sanding; priming a bunch…then painting. 

This article was originally published in the October 2021 issue of Cottage Life magazine.

Got a question for Cottage Q&A? Send it to answers@cottagelife.com.